View All Trip Reports (30) The climb takes an aesthetic line up a dramatic 800' buttress, with sustained 5th class climbing up to 5.9. SherpaVT. The North Buttress splits this wide face in the middle and rises directly in a straight line to the summit. Furthermore. Billy Williams in North Carolina . I chose the left which I protected from the belay stance. Incredible beams from the Keyboard of the Winds After a nice hour spent lounging by the lake watching sunrise light up the peaks, we turned around and marched out in a leisurely fashion taking lots of rest stops and looking for mushrooms along the way. The crux - reported by many - is the West Ridge of Pagoda Mountain which goes at 5.7. 4. It is also possible to top-rope more climbs up to 5.9 from the routes’ belay anchors. I’d like to go back and climb the West Ridge but also the North Buttress (5.7) which are likely both more interesting climbing routes. Drive I-5, take exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington, turning east to Sedro Wooley and SR 20. The route up the NE Buttress of Slesse Mountain (aka Mount Slesse). The approaching to the mountain and the climb itself was great, despite the windchill at the top. It stayed 5.5 through this pitch. North Buttress. I like yours. In the distance a Chinese watch-tower rises from Hunchun City, with North Korean Mountains rising on the left. Colchuck Peak climbed via the North Buttress Couloir on April 10, 2016 with Sean and Jill. I sat drinking beer in the Edinburgh evening sun, grumpy and frustrated about my flight to Canada the next day. The North Buttress (III 5.6) is a classic rock climbing route up ribs and faces on the North Face of Mount Sneffels that is best climbed in July and August after most of the snow has melted off the rock. There are a few points on my peak list that are fairly weak. 2. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. We hope you enjoy the many reports contributed by thousands of our users. Parent: Pagoda Mountain. We needed the scenery of Glacier Gorge for the photos, so instead of camping on the west side of the range, we started from Bear Lake, camped just before Black Lake, and climbed the northeast face of Pagoda. I stopped abruptly when the scrambling was hard and continued to get harder. Mount Goode (pronounced Good-E) is the tallest peak in the North Cascades National Park at 9,199 feet. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105838848/north-buttress The North Face of Pagoda Mountain is a beautiful 1,500' slab of granite rising up between 12,000' and 13.500' above the Glacier Gorge Cirque. On the shortcut trail back to Glacier Gorge, we were passed by a runner who asked if we’d seen his friends “Maury and Alex…” who he was trying to meet up with on Chief’s Head. Elk below Green Lake. Looks like an awesome route. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. I got to the Lower South Colony TH a little before 10:30 and it was already quite full. Moss campion. To reach the base of the North Buttress we had to climb ~200-300 feet up the scree gully leading up to the Longs-Pagoda Saddle and then traverse to the base of the buttress just above a dark band of rock. This is … There are several variations that can be done, with the easiest being in the 4th class range,and the most direct involving climbing up to 5.6. From here it was an unroped scramble over more slab until gaining the top of the North Buttress route and using the very cool and beautiful ridge right to the summit. ... while the four subsidiary temple spires represent the four mountains which buttress Meru on the four sides. We found a nice secluded campsite next to a stream, took some sunset photos for Biolite, ate some really good camp food (seriously), read a little (Alpinist #70), and were both asleep by 10pm. North Buttress (5.7, 6 pitches) Pagoda Mountain, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado Tackle a park classic without queueing up at the base When alpine season begins in the park, climbers flock to the classics: the Petit Grepon, the Casual Route … Pagoda from Glacier Gorge. Photo: Nick Sweeney Grand Central is a six-pitch Grade III-5.10b or 5.9 C1 completed in 2015 that ends on top of the North Buttress. The lower part of the very tedious descent gully is on the left. Christin had a photo assignment for her client Biolite which required a scenic backdrop and camping overnight to catch sunset/sunrise so I suggested we climb Pagoda. I ran the rope out (save for about 10 feet), built an anchor with three cams on a diagonal crack system, and belayed Christin. Not registered. The trickiest navigation was on the tundra above Black Lake. I try to use my best judgement in determining whether it is a worth summit. While there are a number of popular routes on this peak, the classic is surely the South Buttress. The second time, I took the standard hiker’s route to Pagoda, starting from Glacier Gorge parking lot ascending the very scree-heavy gully and then an easy scramble to the top. I brought our very lightweight and thin Petzl Paso Guide rope (7.7mm, 70m) knowing the terrain was easy and a leader fall very unlikely. Continue 47 mi to Marblemount for trip permits at Park Ranger Station. It was not very challenging and roundtrip, it’s 14-15 miles with ~4,500’ of gain. I bailed on Pagoda and instead went up the gentle north ridge of Chief’s Head Peak. The descent was long and tedious over the gully’s loose and dirty talus. Scramble over the dome and down into a broad, U-shaped notch, then up to the base of the initial buttress. She and her partners were going to climb the “Barb” route on The Spearhead. Pagoda Mountain 4,113 m (13,497 ft). Feedback From Black Lake, the terrain is quite gentle over tundra and slithering creeks flowing from the snowmelt and tarns closer to the Continental Divide. P1: Our first roped pitch went straight up the slab. Standing alone on the opposite side of the valley from Liberty Bell, Cutthroat peak rises dramatically above the beautiful alpine meadows near Washington Pass. Easier lines were both left and right so if you’re no lover of slab climbing, find broken rock on either side. The quick beta is: stay right! Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information. 3. 14ers.com has the largest collection of Colorado hiking trip reports on the web! It had one left line and one right line. III. The approach does, however, require climbing snowfields below the face. We both slept very well and were up around 4am. It was 10:15 am and the earliest summit of our partnership to date! We got back to our campsite and loaded up all of the gear (our packs must have weighed 30 pounds!). Continue to Rainy Pass, then descend east 2 mi from the pass to a large paved parking area, 4,400 ft. We packed up the campsite after talking more photos, stashed all but the climbing stuff and started the walk up to Pagoda. Pagoda Mountain (13,497-ft) resides within the protected boundaries of Rocky Mountain National Park, or as some of us say “The Park.” This elegant mountain is.7 miles southwest of Longs Peak (14,255-ft) and.8 miles east of Chief’s Head Peak (13,579-ft.) North Buttress of Crestone Peak + Traverse ; I drove from Crested Butte to Westcliffe Friday night after work a little later than expected. We scrambled the slabs for a pitch before pulling out the rope. It was not very challenging and roundtrip, it’s 14-15 miles with ~4,500’ of gain. With its cracks, clean granite, and challenging and aesthetic lines, this feature just begs to be climbed. I’d like to go back and climb the West Ridge but also the North Buttress (5.7) which are likely both more interesting climbing routes. and maintaining plants. Descent was via the Colchuck Glacier. North Indian Temples. Pagoda Mountain (13,497’) casts an imposing image at the head of Glacier Gorge, between the Keyboard of the Winds and Chiefs Head Peak. 972 miles away. Pagoda Mountain; View More Photos Summit: 13,497 feet : 40.24923°N,-105.62699°W Rank in CO: 258 of 637 13er Rank in CO: 205 of 584 13er Rank in Range: ... North Buttress on Pagoda. Running and climbing distance 14 milesRock climbing grade 5.5 Northeast FaceAlpine grade II (in summer conditions)Number of climbing pitches 3Vertical gain 5,600’Summit elevation 13,497’Time camp to summit to car 9 hours (starting from Black Lake bivy). Plus, the climb has a beautiful setting and a relatively straight-forward approach and descent which makes it a great car-to-car climb. This line was mostly face climbing, with a lot of features to pull on. 1 North Arete. I climbed about 15 feet up before heading back right around a corner and making a tricky move over a roof. Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk: I'll have to keep this route in mind, as I get to be a better trad climber! Admittedly I didn’t do much research (I probably was looking for the shortest route, not the least difficult) and unknowingly was heading up the west ridge. 6. A view towards Half Mountain from near the top of Storm Peak. V - VI. Did the climb with Colorado Mountain Club members. M erriam Peak is a mountain of loose choss with one solid, gleaming triangle of granite punching out in the center of its north side. Basic Concepts All vegetation is potential fuel for a fire. The oldest surviving Chinese pagoda – the 12 sided brick pagoda of the Songyue temple complex built in 523 AD – has a predominantly Indian design. Christin had never climbed Pagoda by any route so even if it didn’t relate to scouting for AWITP it would still be a fun new peak for her and a new route up the mountain for me. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow): Using your forum id/password. We ascended about halfway up the gully before exiting right for the slabs of the northeast face. rmayer. This was a kind of cool cloud. Trad, Alpine 7 pitches Alpine Rock > … > Glacier Gorge > Pagoda Mountain. The Pagoda gully is nasty and just a huge scree pile. 254 records in 204 cities for Billy Williams in North Carolina. 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